Builders Instructions

 Please print these instructions to give to your builder

PRIOR to them pouring your concrete!

1)      A quality batch of concrete should consist of at least 5 sack mix with no fly ash, retarders, curing compounds or chloride accelerators.  The slab should be hard troweled by machine to a slick, mirror finish.  “Burning” the slab creates a nice shading and depth of color, however, “burrs” or trash caught under the blades cut unfavorable swirls.

2)      It is important that the concrete be thoroughly finished with hand tools where needed around the plumbing, risers, floor outlets, or any other element which is not accessible by the machine.

3)      Silicone chalks should NOT be used if at all possible.  The red and yellow chalks are PERMANENT DYES.  Do not over mark for the framing.  Do NOT use silicone sprays to “Hold” the lines.  The sprays repel the stain and leave harsh, permanent scars on the floor.

4)      It is imperative that wood, sheet goods, sections of framing and the like not lay on the slab for extended periods of time.  They can transfer resins and tannins.  They alter the moisture content in the slab which leaves a pattern in the finished floor.

5)      The floor should be protected from the following:   Plumbers Glue, Foam Insulation, Bond Release Agents, Flux, Oils, Grease, Polyurethane, Paint, Markers, Grease Sticks, Spray Paints, Crayons, Muratic Acid, and other chemicals both before and after staining and/or sealing or waxing.  MURATIC ACID PREVENTS CONCRETE FROM REACTING TO THE STAINS AND SHOULD NEVER BE USED ON CONCRETE AT ALL!!!!

6)      The framers should brace the wall to the outside and not to the slab.. Door plates should be cut away immediately.

7)      The floors should be clean and the room empty, with absolutely nothing on the floors prior to the arrival of our crew.  Our fees do not include removing paper, moving furniture, tools, equipment, fixtures, building materials, or otherwise.  There should be no other trades on the floors or scheduled at the same time as T.R.S. Resurfacing  Inc. 

8)      It is extremely important that you do not tape the floor!  When covering the floor, overlap sheets of builder’s paper from Home Depot.  Tape the first sheet to the wall then overlap the second sheet to the first and tape it to the paper.  DO NOT TAPE TO THE FLOOR.  Duct Tape, Masking Tape, Packaging Tape, Strap Tape, Blue Tape, Green Tape, and Electrical Tape – there are NO exceptions.  The tape alters the natural curing process and transfers chemicals to and from the slab.  This WILL SHOW in the finished product.  If you intend to use 24Hour Tape for less than 24 hours please call us first at (813) 516-7017 to discuss the situation!

9)      When covering the floor, you may use sheets of masonite or single faced cardboard on top of the builder’s paper, however do not cover the floor with plastic at any time!  It prevents the slab from breathing which inhibits proper curing.  It can result in efflorescence.  Prevent excessive vapor transmission.  T.R.S. Resurfacing, Inc. cannot prevent and is not responsible for moisture or related concerns.

10)    There must be two 110volt outlets on two separate 20amp breakers not more than 150 feet from the furthest point of the slab available to our crew alone.  Additionally, running water and trash receptacles must be available.

11)    We make every effort to create beautiful, cost effective flooring.  Our prices do not include excessive cleaning, protective covering, or any other service not covered in the proposal.  Our prices are based on actual square footage – just as the architect and appraiser measures – so do we, wall-to-wall.  We cannot credit for cabinets, built-ins, ect.  This is industry standard.

12)   Touch-ups are often needed and should be expected following a stain, seal, and/or wax work.  Please schedule these touchups once our work is completely finished.

13)   Acid Stains are chemically reactive metallic salts that seek out and react with the lime in the concrete.  As such, they can be manipulated, but not controlled, and anticipated but not guaranteed.  Our color chart shows typical color reactions.  However, every slab is different.  Every pour of concrete will react independently to the stains.  All elements and circumstances affect the outcome of the floors.  Temperature, humidity, age of concrete, batch of stain, batch mix design of concrete, accelerators, fly ash, wind, instructions listed herein and the like will ALL contribute to the outcome of the floor.  EXACT colors and stain patterns cannot be achieved – it is fundamental that all parties involved understand this – please understand also that this process creates a totally unique floor, with depth and beauty that cannot be copied!

14)  We prefer to cut the slab 2-3 days after it is poured and before the framers set the walls.  Then we will return to stain and wax or seal the slab when the project is “dried in” (framed with doors, windows and water tight, no insulation or sheet rock).  After the project is dried in, the floors should be covered as directed above.   Should additional wax be needed post construction, the cleaning crew should thoroughly clean the floor (sweep, vacuum, mop), then schedule our company.  The touch-up painters should follow.  An alternate schedule is to wait until the final stage of construction to stain.  Please call (813) 516-7017 to discuss scheduling options.

15)  To insure proper scheduling, please contact us at least 3 weeks in advance, as we work diligently to accommodate many schedules at the same time.  We ask that you communicate your project status to us continually as well as any questions or concerns you may have.  We are committed to providing finest floor possible and are sure you want the same.      We appreciate that!!!!!

Send mail to Info@hsdcs.com with questions or comments about this web site.